"That"s really been a remarkable story for anybody who remembers the state of agriculture in the Soviet period," says Gustafson. "Right now, Russia is once again the world"s largest exporter of wheat." Total revenues were about $25bn (£19bn) in 2019, he adds, and Russia aims to increase that to $45bn (£34bn) by 2024 through agricultural reforms. "That seems entirely realistic, or plausible at any rate," says Gustafson.