Tempelhof is so immense that its 10 entrances fall within three neighbourhoods in southern Berlin. To soak in the full scale of a space that"s twice the size of Monaco, follow Herrfurthstrasse"s cobblestones down a bustling stretch of graffiti-tagged cafes and bars to the park"s eastern entrance in the district of Neukölln. At the end of the dead-end street, the former airport"s vast, open expanse suddenly appears before you, unfurling towards the horizon. But instead of planes, it"s kite-surfers and in-line skaters flying down the runway, the mammoth terminal building shrunken in the distance.